Best wines for meat

Eva Pizarro

Sommelier at Fierro restaurant and trainer at Tandem Gastronómico.

We all think of red wine when it comes to accompanying meat, but are we doing the right thing? Is it the only option we have? I’ll give you the answer straight away: no, it isn’t. Fortunately, this opens up a wide range of new combinations that you might not have imagined, and today, I’ll share some with you.

WHY DO MEATS GO WELL WITH RED WINES?

There is a scientific explanation for this. One of the key reasons is the tannins found in red wines. I’ve mentioned them in previous articles, but in case you don’t remember, tannins refer to that astringent or drying sensation that lingers in your mouth after drinking wines with a lot of extraction or those aged in barrels, typically new ones.

Meat juices and fats absorb and soften the drying action of wine tannins. Additionally, red wines usually have structure, body, intense flavours, and ageing notes that tend to pair well with robust meats cooked over an open flame, on a grill, or similar methods.

Obviously, this statement is very relative, as we have to take this into account:

• How the meat is prepared: Is it raw, stewed, grilled, etc.?
• The type of meat: Pork, rabbit, beef, etc., and the cut of the meat.
• The side dish: What’s served alongside the meat.
   

These three points can significantly alter the best wine pairing. For example, a grilled beef chop with roasted peppers is entirely different from a grilled chicken fillet with a citrus sauce.

This is where we can start to experiment and explore other options. Let me share some experiences and some historical pairings by contrast, such as meats in escabeche (a type of pickling).

> One of the most incredible experiences I had the pleasure of living, was a pairing of sherry wines with a Galician stew. Sherry wines are very unique and come in great variety, allowing for perfect pairings with the different parts of pork and ingredients that make up this typical Galician dish. And we well know that Sherry wines are not reds, but they possess such complexity and intensity that they can stand up to the boldest flavours:

• Try an amontillado with fatty meats, a bean stew or tripe.
• A fino with Iberian ham or loin of pork.
• An oloroso with a meat casserole, stew or game meat.
• A cream with foie gras, sweet and sour pork, or spicy meat.

> François Chartier, a great sommelier and specialist in the study of molecular pairings, presented in Barcelona in 2020 his study on pairing with cava. His findings were surprising, such as the fact that Gran Reserva Cavas, with over 30 months of ageing, pair perfectly with beef, Iberian ham, foie gras, and many other ingredients. So a long-aged sparkling wine can be a great ally with meat dishes and certain preparations.

> Rosé wines often make excellent pairings with cold cuts, cold meats like tartare, or light dishes where the meat isn't the star. You have a wide variety of rosés, from the palest and lightest to those with more colour, body, and juiciness. Don’t forget about them when choosing a wine – they’re a great resource, and there’s currently a strong push from wineries to produce high-quality rosés.

> Ferran Centelles, sommelier of the iconic restaurant El Bulli, in his book What Wine with This Duck' tells us about his experience pairing a dish of wild boar with a fresh and light white wine that elevated the dish to new flavours. And no wonder, since one of the most famous pairings, by contrast, is suckling pig accompanied by a Riesling, a white wine with high acidity that counteracts the fat of the meat, making us salivate and savour each bite even more.

As you can see, the options for pairing meat dishes don’t end with red wines. Nowadays, we have access to almost any wine in the world, so don’t close doors – experiment, enjoy, and turn each experience into a different journey.