Does perfume expire, and how to know if it has?

I am sure that it has happened to you at some time: looking in the bottom of a draw or behind another object, a bottle of perfume turns up that you liked so much and you thought you had lost it. When you take the lid off, you suddenly wonder if perfume expires and if it will still smell the same as when it was new. Unlike yoghurt or medicines, we don’t usually look for the expiry date on the box, but it is true that these fragrances have a shelf life and their chemical composition is sensitive to time, oxygen and light. 

Does perfume expire even if it is not opened? What you should know

A very common doubt among collectors is if perfumes expire even if they are not opened. The short answer is yes, but there are nuances. Although the bottle has not been atomised and oxygen has not come into contact with the liquid, the chemical components do have a shelf life.

Nevertheless, a sealed bottle of perfume stored properly (in a cool, dark place), can keep its properties for much longer than one that is in use. Most perfume experts agree that under the manufacturer's seal, a fragrance can last for between 3 and 5 years, although that will always depend on the quality of the raw materials.

Does eau de cologne expire the same as perfume?

It is important to point out differences in concentrations. We often wonder if eau de cologne expires at the same rate as perfume extracts. This is where the chemistry comes into play: although alcohol is a preservative, what actually determines the duration is the structure of the aroma.

Eau de cologne and eau de toilette are rich in citrus and light floral fragrances. Their molecules are very volatile and can oxidise easily. On the other hand, perfume tends to have a higher concentration of wood, resin or musk, which stand the test of time much better.

Does perfume expire over time even if it is stored properly?

Even if you store it meticulously, perfume does inevitably expire owing to the organic nature of many of its ingredients. Nevertheless, the trick to make sure it lasts longer after opening is in how we store it:

• Do not keep it in the bathroom. Although this is the most common place to keep perfume, it is also the worst. The sudden changes of temperature and the constant humidity from the shower make the perfume molecules break down faster. The ideal place is in the dressing room or on a shelf in the bedroom.
• Keep it away from light. Although perfume bottles are designer items in themselves, light decomposes the fragrance molecules, causing it to become unstable. Keep perfume in a dark place or in its box.
• Keep away from heat sources. Fragrances should ideally be stored under 15ºC. Heat irreversibly alters the chemical composition.
• Keep the lid on. Oxygen is enemy number one of perfume. Closing the bottle after each use is essential to avoid fast oxidisation.

Furthermore, depending on their components, some perfumes are more susceptible to oxidisation than others. For example, Oriental and woody fragrances (which usually contain fixing ingredients such as amber, patchouli or sandalwood) are more stable and last longer than citrus or floral fragrances, whose molecules are lighter and more volatile. The concentration of the perfume and how the ingredients are combined also play a role.

Perfume expiry date

If you check the box or the bottom of the bottle, you will find the key. The expiry date for perfume is shown by means of the PAO symbol (a small open jar with a number and the letter "M”). Manufacturers usually guarantee optimum condition between 12 and 36 months after it is opened.

It is important to point out that even so, perfumes expire gradually. They do not become dangerous overnight, but they do lose their balance, meaning that the smell you liked so much is not the same, rather more rancid and with a stronger smell of alcohol.

How to know if perfume has expired

The best way to check if your perfume has expired is to spray some on a piece of paper to see if it has an unpleasant smell. We can also look to see if the perfume has changed colour. If it is darker or has yellowed, this normally means that it has oxidised. In some cases, there may be some residue inside the bottle, which can be seen at the bottom or if we gently swirl it around.

In short, even though the expiry date of perfume is an important reference for manufacturers, your nose will have the last say. If you keep your fragrances in a cool, dry, dark place, they will most likely stay with you for much longer than what it says on the bottle.